13 January 2012

Restaurant Review: Hill Country Barbeque Market

I don't think classifying this post as a restaurant review is really accurate.  I think a more accurate categorization might be "ode to barbeque " or "prayer to the gods of fat and flavor." In short (and certainly in blasphemy), blessed are those who eat this barbeque.

We chose Hill Country Barbeque Market to celebrate the birthday of a coworker, S.  Her December 29th birthday screws her in the work celebration department since our office is a ghost town the week between Christmas and the New Year.  To make it up to her and also to relive some of the delicious barbeque we've enjoyed together on Southwest border travels, our little Communications team decided to give this place a try.

When I walked in, I was surprised by how large the restaurant is for occupying what looks like only a small store-front on 7th Street in the busy and crowded Penn Quarter neighborhood of DC. But this New York based barbeque joint is definitely trying to channel the "everything is bigger in Texas" vibe and does so pretty successfully.  I was also surprised to realize that while I made a reservation ahead of time, it's not a sit-down restaurant.  Once seated, you're each given a card with the menu on it.  When you've decided what you want you walk up to the counters and order, receive your food on a tray and take it back to your table.

Because we're good food sharers and like to try everything (READ: we're gluttons for the right food), S, V, and I decided to each choose one combo from the lunch specials list and have them throw it all together.  Together we chose a Brisket, Chicken and Rib Special, a Brisket Chomp Special and a Kruez Sausage Special.  The meat, wrapped all together in paper right there in front of us, totaled one-quarter pound lean-brisket, a half-pound moist brisket, a quarter of a chicken, one-third of a pound of jalapeno cheese sausage, and a large pork spare rib.  Each combo also came with a side of cornbread with ancho-honey butter and an 8 ounce side.  That meant between us we had three sides.  And here comes the real gluttony. We couldn't make do with just three because the Long Horn Cheddar Mac & Cheese looked too good for just one side so we added an extra to be able to try the Campfire Baked Beans with Burnt Ends and the Corn Pudding.  All unwrapped at the table, this was the spread for three people.


I'd like to say there were leftovers, but I'd be lying.  We laid waste to our meal, leaving only a few bits of lean brisket and pork rib and maybe all of three bites of our sides.  But this food was phenomenal.  We've all been to Texas and had real barbeque.  This may have lacked the smoke that you get there with outside smokers (you can't do that in downtown DC), but otherwise, it brought all the flavors we've come to expect from real barbeque.  The moist brisket fell apart on your fork, the chicken was so juicy I nearly spattered it on the guy sitting to my left and then there was the sausage.  I don't know what it is about us and sausage, but every time it's ordered it's enjoyed above all else.  I've written about this before.

The sides were, for the most part, the same great combination of flavors (and, let's be honest, a whole lot of fat). The mac and cheese was rich and creamy. Having been made with penne rigate, every furrow of every noodle seemed to soak up the cheese sauce.  The corn pudding was a surprising favorite.  A dish I at least had never tried, I was pleasantly surprised to find that it wasn't mushy. Instead, the texture was a juxtaposition of still crisp corn kernels and a creamy pudding base.  And the natural sweetness from the corn was played up with just the right amount of salt. The last side, the baked beans, didn't wow me.  They were good, but not something I'd go back for.  Next time, it's all about the corn pudding!

By the time we cashed out, there was a lot of grumbling about how full we were and more than a little wondering about how we'd manage to stay awake for the remainder of the work day.  Somehow we managed it, but I don't think I'll be going back to Hill Country for lunch.  This will have to be dinner next time and it will have to be only as a special treat if I want my pants to continue to fit.

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